End of the Road 2021 kicks against the grain and comes out stronger than ever on its opening days

Known for its inclusionary line-ups which evolve with an ever-changing musical climate as opposed to having a focus on a specific genre or personal brand, the festival – which since its inception in 2006 has been notable for providing an escape from the run-of-the-mill touring circuit – honours the history of the gardens by playing host to a range of entertainment from live performances, film screenings, and comedy shows.

Whilst walking through the festival grounds it’s not unusual to spot a peacock or two, or even hear the calls of macaws, which adds to the magical feel of roaming through woodland areas which is scattered with outstanding architecture. It’s no surprise that whilst most people make the pilgrimage to Larmer Tree Gardens for the music, it’s the respite of the actual festival setting which keeps them coming back, and it’s the overall atmosphere which makes End of the Road festival sell out year after year.

What with 2020 being a dire year for the live music industry which saw an overwhelming number of postponements, the festival, now in its fifteenth edition, have had to tap into all of their resources in order to curate a lineup that is true to its roots and ethos, whilst maintaining the innovation that it is known for. After rebooking its lineup four times since the original announcement – which featured Pixies, Angel Olsen, Big Thief, Bright Eyes, Tinariwen and Aldous Harding – festival director Simon Taffe has said that organising this year’s festival has been just as hard as putting on a festival for the first time in 2006.

His intentions with End of the Road is to curate a lineup of artists who are in his record collection as opposed to just booking the “indie landfill bands” that can be found on almost every bill of the season. If Taffe had it his way, he would have the likes of Radiohead, PJ Harvey and Nick Cave on the lineup, but of course some things are less achievable than others. In the context of cancellations and the restrictions of the dreaded B word, Taffe says: “I’ve never cared about release cycles [when it comes to booking artists for the festivals]. We went for what would be the most fun festival with the kind of bands that it was possible with. It’s interesting to see smaller bands elevated to a bigger spot as a result.”

Due to the constraints of Brexit and artists struggling to acquire a touring visa, most international artists had to drop out last minute. As they had released their lineup fairly early, End of the Road was able to lock in its replacements four months in advance. Anarchist post-punk duo Sleaford Mods and electro-pop party starters Hot Chip were all announced to be joining the likes of Little Simz, The Comet Is Coming and King Krule. But such is the ever-changing landscape in this day and age, just four weeks before the festival was scheduled to go ahead, a near-twenty artists dropped out including Tinariwen, The Anchoress and Blanck Mass – all to be replaced by legendary polymath Damon Albarn, Birmingham’s own Sipho and the confessional singer-songwriter Anna B Savage.

Despite all of the challenges faced in order to celebrate its fifteenth year, there is no doubt that the festival will is one to remember. Whilst most opening days can be slow burners that are simply what you make of it, there’s a relaxed-yet-excited air that permeates the grounds of Larmer Tree Gardens. It’s impossible to deny the unique feeling that comes from walking through the campsites and seeing festival-goers – whether veterans or first timers – locating the perfect pitch spot or indulging in some hearty and sustainable food in the village area. Being able to attend a festival, in any shape of form, is something that will remain a peculiar event for many months to come.

As the sun begins to set on the first day, the music starts and something changes in the air – almost as though you’ve woken up into a dreamscape: you’re experiencing an altered reality and a glimpse of life as you once knew it. Japanese-based band Kikagaku Moyo bring their blend of improv-driven, hypnotic krautrock and psychedelic rock to the Woods stage whilst Blood Wizard’s soothing folk melodies are there for anybody looking for something a little more mellow. Eventually headliners Stereolab bring their funk, jazz and avant-pop fusion to a festival setting for the first time after a ten-year hiatus and, despite the sound feeling muddied in the evening wind, it goes down a storm.

An early night is on the cards for most, as Thursday evening’s entertainment is sparse. When the next morning rolls around energy levels are high due to a good night’s sleep, and spirits are even higher thanks to the blazing heat. It’s Friday, and what better way to spend the afternoon than with a few drinks in the sunshine. Alongside their regular run of food traders who are well-known for their freshness and sustainability – Thyme and Tide’s Cornish produce, La Grande Bouffe’s hearty Gallic cuisine and The Cheese Truck’s hangover friendly grub – End of the Road should also be credited for their drink options – both alcoholic and non-alcoholic.

As an independent festival, End of the Road takes pride on supporting local businesses and smaller producers who share the same ethos as them. In previous years, they’ve been sponsored by Beavertown but this year Two Tribes, the Kings Cross brewery born out of a collaboration between two music lovers, are at the helm of all things hoppy. They’ve even had a beer specially brewed by Cumbria’s Gan Yam Brewery for the 15th edition of the festival. Whether to be consumed on site or to be bought as a commemorative beer for being able to pull of huge a monumental event during one of the weirdest times in recent memory, “One For The Road” is a session IPA packed full of tropical fruits which is perfectly suited for sunny afternoons spent in a field.

Acting as a saving grace from your standard means of hydration via warm pints of Carslberg or Tuborg is The Bear Tavern – a craft beer bar which serves cask ales, bitters, and stouts from smaller producers such as Dark Revolution, Silk Penny and the Long Dog Brewery. Elsewhere near The Peacock bar, you can treat yourself to classic cocktails as you wander towards the Garden stage, and most importantly, when the evening chill sets in, The Somerset Cider Bus serves a mulled cider brandy which is a perfect nightcap for sitting by the bonfire and winding down before you head back to your tent.

If Thursday is a day for acclimatising to being in a field for the first time in many months, Friday is where things get a little more exciting. Wandering around the "Effing" Forest you find yourself immersed in nature, and as you stroll past lanterns and origami cranes in the trees and inspirational messages that are cut into some of the leaves, it’s the ultimate retreat which makes it easy to forget that you’re actually at a music festival. There’s a games area with bowling and ping pong on offer, but if you’re looking to rest your legs for a little while, the cinema tent can be found if you wander past the hidden piano stage. Showing films from ten in the morning until late, spanning from The Wizard of Oz to The Blair Witch Project, there’s truly something for everyone.

Curated by BEST FIT, the Piano Stage hosts secret sets by artists who are performing over the weekend. Turning their normal setup on its head and adapting to a more stripped-back setting can be daunting for most, but South London’s multi-instrumentalist and producer Wu-Lu is a prime example that taking risks and pushing yourself past what others perceive as your comfort zone can be a fortuitous thing. Taking his melange of underground punk and psychedelic-infused hip-hop to an acoustic setting sees “South” come off as a hypnotic commentary on life in his hometown, but on the Tipi Stage a few hours later, it’s a political assault on the senses which expelled an urgency that is perfectly matched by Bo Ningen who play a secret set later in the evening. Their first since the pandemic started, it’s as riotous as we’ve come to expect from the band, but there’s a frenetic energy which seems infinite – especially with their entrancing final song truly seeming endless, propelling most people into the silent discos for the rest of the evening; chasing the sun and refusing to call it a night.

As the weekend continues, there will be performances from Dry Cleaning, Little Simz and King Krule as well as life-drawing sessions, tarot readings and comedy performances.